11 - March 15th thru March 21st 1999,
Vol IX
Palaces
& Temples of Serwah
Serwah is a renowned name in the ancient history of Yemen. History says
that the Serwah area was a center of culture during the reigns of the first
and the second dynasties of Sheba in the first millennium B.C. It was the
most sacred place for the deity of the people and the state of Sheba.
The greatest and most magnificent temples of ancient Yemen were constructed
here. Paramount to all was the temple of Al-Makah, the supreme god in the
kingdom of Sheba and Dhu-Raydan. Also on this land were built the summer-resort
palaces for the monarchs - known as the Mukarebs.
High priests and senior statesmen including the king's entourage, army
commanders, community elders and the powerful local chiefs came for pilgrimages.
At the same time Serwah was a meeting place for intellectuals and the
highly qualified civil engineers and architects who were famous for constructing
monuments, such as castles,
fortresses, palaces, temples, government buildings, as well as engineering
feats such as dams, irrigation canals, and other public utilities.
For all those reasons, Serwah area attracted the best artists and architects
who left their exquisite traces on every historical monuments in the city.
They worked creatively on every monument, leaving their inscriptions to
decorate temple arches, castle walls and palace entrances. They also left
behind giant sculptures of various shapes - of birds, animals and humans
which were scattered through the city squares or were perched on the gates
of temples and palaces as well as the reception halls, dancing galleries,
and taverns.
GEOPHYSICAL DESCRIPTION AND ANTIQUES:
Serwah, about 100 kilometers east of Sanaa, rises to 1300 foot above
sea level. The climate is mild and temperatures do not exceed 30 degrees
centigrade in the summer and in the teens in the winter.
It is located at the meeting place between the dry-climate of the desert
and the semi-cold weathers of northern and western mountain slopes.
Serwah's geophysical structure is part of the eastern huge mountain
geological layers. Basalt and granite layers are most common. There are
many dormant or inactive volcanos which are seen in form of high, black
protrusion of sharp-ended rocks, located to the north of Bani-Jabr territory.
Not far from the beautiful volcanic scenery, to the north and north east,
there abound great quantities of basalt and chalky stones in forms of white
and red bald stone.
The long valley of Serwah takes a circular shape and appears to slope
down till it meets the outskirts of Athana Valley in Mareb. Serwah valley
is surrounded and intersected by high mountains which makes it hard to
farm the land on a large scale. However, the small cultivated areas depend
on ground water for irrigation, although the relics of man-made waterways
testify to the use of artificial irrigation by the people of Sheba.
History is very much alive. Modern ways have yet to make their ways
into the Khawlan clans who till the land. About the only reminder of the
modern times are the Hunt sub-stations which pump oil away to the coast.
The people, sturdy and rugged as the land itself, are as hard as human
beings can get any where in the world.
PLACES OF MONUMENTS IN SERWAH
The scenes and views become even more beautiful with the presence of
many monuments. These are major attractions to thousands of foreign tourists.
Unfortunately, they are as yet unknown to the outside world as it still
remains a well-kept secret. The unruly people and rugged terrain does not
help either.
There are many places full of antiques in the form of stone pieces inscribed
in Musnad calligraphy or decorated in crossed lines. The tourist will also
find engraved images of javelins and animals wherever his/her sight falls.
However, there are three main sites that must be visited. Locals give
these sites the following names: the Building (Al-Bina), the Palace (Al-Qasser)
and the Ruined site (Al-Kherbah). There lie buried inside these three sites
the nicest and most magnificent architectural relics in the region. Initial
archeological excavations have produced a variety of artistic pieces.
Some scientist once said, "Serwah territory is the greatest antique
stock in the civilization of Sheba and Dhu-Raydan."
This statement is true because this territory has been an outstanding
center of civilization for many centuries in the past. It was the seat
of a long list of monarchs from the Sheba and Dhu Raydan dynasties.
For this reason too its fame reached the later generations in Yemen
and every one was impressed by its magnificence. It became a song for the
poet and a subject of speculation for the scientist. Al-Hamadany, the great
Yemeni scientist and author of the illustrious books "Al-Ekleel"
or the Wreath, and "Description of the Arab Peninsula" once said,
"Serwah has no equal among cities."
Some of Serwah's palaces and temples were immortalized in a poem
by the great poet of Khawlan in the sixth century after Hijrah, A'amer
Ibn Ahmed Al-Qushiby. In one of his poems he glorified his ancestors' everlasting
achievements in Serwah. The first three lines of this poem say:
They reigned...
for a thousand months.
And in Serwah they built, the edifice of the South Wind.
The three sites - Al-Kherbah, Al-Qasser, and Al-Bina, occupy one topographical
line in the center of the circular valley. Al-Kherbah is located in the
middle of this line and up to the north is Al-Bina site where there can
found at about 900 meters from the site, ruins of an old water dam. Al-Qasser
occupies the southern territory of the line near a village which has been
built in recent times inside a castle. The castle dates back to the middle
ages, and was apparently built in a style different from that of Sheba.
The first thing one notices when surveying the Al-Kherbah is a high
rocky hill on which it was built. On top of this hill are relics of stone
buildings which rise in some places to 18 meters. The total area of the
site is 260 x 240 meters. Relics of some temples can be seen with inscribed
stones scattered here and there. The nearer one approaches, the more relics
lie around. So far these relics remain unveiled secrets.
However, the most important thing that attracts the visitor's attention
is the divine temple of Al-Makah and some parts of a once big palace named
by the locals the Palace of Bilqis. A group of granite pillars can also
be seen in the area.
Al-Makah, a symbol of the chief divinity worshipped at the time of Sheba
and Dhu Raydan, is a temple which extends over a wide area. The temple
entrance is located in the south. A small tower stands on top of the entrance
and appears to be a side gate which in old times must have lead to the
temple's courtyard before it collapsed. Most of the temple's sides are
still standing, of which perhaps the most remarkable are the walls in the
eastern side which are still supported by some pillars. Of these walls,
there are only five left intact and take the shape of a single mass of
stone. They were only a part of the courtyard front wall. The eastern wall
of the temple also remains intact.
It is completely built of granite stones carefully cut and polished.
The higher parts of the wall are decorated with heads of ibex.
The height of the wall is about
10 meters high. Its architectural style reflects the classical design
of old Yemen. The rule in this style is the horizontal stone-coupling.
This rule achieves maximum stone connection.
The temple has an outside fence built of two wall close to each other.
The space between them is filled with small pieces of stone. Some inscriptions
can be seen on this fence. The most important inscription found here is
the one known as the Great Triumph which tells about the glorious victories
of the King Kareb al-Weter. The story begins at night when this king decided
to bring the small fragmented fiefdoms in one national state under one
supreme political leadership and with one capital - Serwah. This inscription
was discovered by Glazer, a French scientist and explorer in mid 19th century.
The text is composed of 86 lines inscribed on a big marble stone. At
Al-Kherbah site,only the front face of inscription that occupies an area
of about 7 meters remains. The other half of the inscription was taken
to an unknown place until in 1952 it was, by sheer accident, Dr. Ahmed
Fakhery, an Arab archeologist noticed the inscription thrown in a stable
room in someone's house. Later it is said that this part of the inscription
was taken to the authority of Archeology in Sanaa.
The historical value of this inscription was appreciated after it was
deciphered. It conspicuously revealed the significance of the civil war
king Kareb led to fulfill his ambitious dream to re-unify the whole country.
This step, which took place in the 5th century B.C. has been considered
by the contemporary historians a watershed in the political and social
transformation of Yemen.
An
Appeal to All Responsible and Patriotic Yemenis:
Save Our Youth Before It
Is Too Late
With all due respect, I would like to thank you for your interest and
appreciation of the many obstacles and problems that face the youth; that
obviously represented in your issue No.2 of 11/1/99. Though you shouldn't
be thanked because it is your duty and it is the duty of all honorable
Yemenis who are concerned with the interests of Yemen by thinking about
what is happening in children's circumstances, showing up the violations
of the laws, exploring the social imperfections and looking for solutions.
There is no doubt that youth are the backbone of any nation; they are
the country's ammunition and horsepower in the face of future and they
are the main pillar for the growing process of any country in reaching
for prosperity. That is only if they find real care, support and orientation;
especially the well educated and qualified youth.
In other words, the government must take care of their youth, develop
their capabilities, and adopt their energies and potential in order to
promote improvement. That is as a matter of course, nobody denies that
and nobody can ignore the youth.
But it is a pity that what we are seeing in our home is that our bureaucracy
do deny and ignore youth's capabilities and energies, instead of developing
and adopting our capabilities and exploiting our energies and potential.
We find them simply and absurdly judging by stopping employment and gaining
of wealth from our energies and potential. At the same time, what is absurd
and laughable is that our government sends young people to study in various
overseas countries and spend so many millions of dollars upon them to make
them qualified, and in the end they threw them out onto the street jobless,
with useless qualifications and even without any benefit from the huge
amount of money that was spent upon them. If they do use them, they usually
misuse their qualifications and waste them power of their youth, as in
the case of the Geologists and oil graduates. Consequently, the whole thing
leads to frustration and inhibiting the youth's enthusiasm and killing
their ambitions and capabilities.
The excuse is that there is a deficit in the budget and there is economic
stagnancy. Well, if that is so, can we ignore the youth and take them away?
Is this the only right decision which would save the budget and refresh
the stagnant economy? How marvelous, losing the youth's power and kill
their aspirations is the only right decision to solve all our problems,
that is ridiculous.
Supposing that may help, then we have to search for substitutions for
those idle poor youth who turned a hand to studding, took pains to be qualified
and enthusiastically graduated hoping to serve their home. Have our governors
discussed or even thought about what to do with the youth who have been
educated in this system? Certainly not, that is clearly showed in their
daily practices and their failure to solve our economic problems and create
alternatives.
That is to say, as long as our regime can not recruit the youth and
employ their potential, so they have to sustain the private sectors and
support tourism and protect, enhance and encourage foreign support, protect,
enhance and encourage foreign and local investment to participate in and
invest their money in Yemen, definitely that would create lots of job opportunities
for youth and somehow would help in solving the problem. In the meantime,
it goes without saying that investments and tourism require security, protection
and application of the law, that is only logical. Unfortunately the current
insecurity is certainly caused by the weakness and failure of our regime
and because of corrupt and useless bureaucracy. Who would come to see or
invest anything in Yemen under these circumstances? The state of our country
is a very disappointing and depressing thing.
I'm trying to say that the ambivalent and unclear policy of our government
together with the unaware, careless, and corrupt government are decidedly
responsible for our civilization's insecurity and the ruining of the country
economically. The economic stagnancy and lack of government effort is causing
our youth to become hopeless and aimless, without purpose. Even the well
educated and qualified students are becoming hopeless, and others stop
studying, because they see that it brings them nothing.
So, the problem is how can we rework the regime and convince our governors
of the importance of youth? How can we assert our rights and call their
attention to our qualifications and capabilities in the course of constructing
a bright future and making a more prosperous Yemen? That is the problem,
to make people aware of the usefulness of youth in Yemen's future.
And when we succeed in doing that, I mean reworking our regime, reforming
the authorities within the administrative hierarchy and renewing the governor's
conscience, i.e. making them really careful, loving and innocent in their
work for Yemen. If we could do this, we wouldn't find any young people
committing suicide or aimlessly prowling streets as a result of frustration
and despair of finding a job opportunity, and we would find them very hard
working, persuasive in studying and very optimistic about the future.
This is my opinion and thanks again for your help.
Ali Abdullah Seenah,
Geologist - Geophysicist,
Ain shams Uni-graduate
Unemployed at this time.
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